Great job! Notice how this customer went OVER the cross supports. This works well and is actually a little more effective. Ideally, you would see no wood on the bottom of your roof. Gable vents - He ran the foil up the endwall to the gable vents leaving a small gap at the top and bottom of the wall to allow air to flow between the foil and the exterior sheathing/siding on the gable wall.

Customers often ask "how much of a space at the top" - Ideally 2" - 4" is best. In this case the customer used the Open-Ridge Method and decided to start below the little cross supports about 12" down. This kept him from having to cut around each support in the hard to reach top part of the attic. This customer STILL covered over 90% - GREAT JOB! Notice how he cut around the roof vents to allow air to flow without any restriction.

Truss attics can be tricky. Once again, the natural break between sheets of foil was about 5 inches below the supports. Rather than working/cutting/stapling around each support, he just left a strip of no AtticFoil and started again on the other side of the supports. This saved a bunch of time and cutting and he only gave up a small amount of coverage/benefit. Even got his feet in the picture :)

Here is a great example of installing AtticFoil on a larger truss install. This customer ran the AtticFoil up the slope and then used the horizontal webbing below the ridge to create a Flat Top method of installation. This works great for taller attics and uses less material. You can't see he has several holes in the middle of the flat part to allow air to flow from below the flat top to the top vents.

This customer started out with a bubble foil product from Home Depot or Lowes and then did part of his roof. He then realized that bubble foil and other similar products are expensive compared to AtticFoil and give NO additional benefit when stapling to the bottom of a roof in a vented attic. So, he finished the attic with AtticFoil and as expected cannot tell the difference between the bubble foil area and the AtticFoil area.

Nice job on a valley part of the roof. Notice they left a small cutout at the bottom of the valley to allow air to flow in behind the foil and the roof deck. They also left a small opening at the top to let air escape and make it to the top of the roof. Hips and valleys are installed just the same as any other part of the roof. Just leave a small hole/slit at the top and bottom of each cavity for air to enter and escape.

This is a good "in process" picture. Notice how they have cut out around the electric fan. You should cut out around ALL roof vents AND allow a gap at the tops of all rafter cavities. Air will flow between the roof and the foil. Ultimately, the air will all end up in the top of the attic. Hot air acts just like water towards a drain. It does not matter what type of exhaust vents you have: ridge vents, wind turbins, gable vents, electric fans, (just don't mix attic exhaust vents) they will provide an EXIT point for the heated air. The "Exit" point does NOT have to be in the absolute highest point (ridge vents) just near the top.

This is the same attic as the picture on the left. They have left a small space at the ridge. Air will "POOL" in the top of the attic and is going to be SKIMMED of by the electic attic fan. The same thing would happen if they had several wind turbines.

Truss type attic with a multi level roof line. There is a small sidewall where the roof drops to the lower level.

Close up of the sidewall. They have done an excellent job creating a full and continious sheet of AtticFoil that follows the roofline.

Yes, you generally want to do the gable ends if possible especially if they catch direct sun. Cut around and gable vents.

Here is a close up picture of "wrapping" a cross support. This is a fast and effective way to work around them. Just let the foil hang down and then staple on the other side of the support.

This customer had a plan to start at the top and bottom and meet in the middle. Remember the rule "Measure twice, cut once" Anyway, the small gap is no big deal, he still got almost full coverage.

Wrinkles work!! The fast an furious method illustrated here. It may not be perfectly smooth, but remember it's YOUR ATTIC. There are no awards for pretty installations. Just get it done.

Another Truss attic. One misconception is that with all the webbing truss type attics are really difficult. In fact, they are usually not too difficult. Because the trusses line up, you can pull or "thread" the AtticFoil all the way through them before stapling up. Taking the foil and folding in half or thirds will enable the AtticFoil to be eaily pulled through even the lowest space near the eaves.

What a perfect looking install job! If your attic looks half this good be very proud.

Installing Radiant Barrier Over Attic Insulation. This customer decided to run the foil parallel with the trusses. It was about 15 ft. to the center of the attic. They precut pieces 48" wide by 15 ft. Then cut a slit in the 48" part about 7 ft long. This enabled them to push the AtticFoil all the way to the eaves and the precut slit allowed the foil to easily wrap around the supports. They did this on both sides of the attic and met in the middle.

Cold climate Radiant Barrier installation. This is an older home in the North East. They wrapped the sidewalls and covered the floor in the pockets on either side of a 2nd floor room.

Here is a another floor installation. They even wrapped the staircase going up to the loft attic. AtticFoil is so durable you can even walk on it with out tearing it.

Close up picture of installing the AtticFoil on the stairs. They were extremely pleased how much LESS heat they felt from the staircase wall in the Summer.

Using a radiant barrier as a house wrap is rapidly gaining popularity. AtticFoil CAN be used as an air barrier and as a SECONDARY drainage plane. In order for a radiant barrier to work as a house wrap you MUST have an airspace between the foil and the exterior cladding. If using brick or stone this will usually occur naturally. If you are using a siding material it is advised to use furring strips to create the necessary air space.

Using furring strips allow the radaint barrier to work by reflecting heat being emitted by the siding. It also creates a back-ventilated system to allow for maximum drying of the wall assembly. For house wraps check out our NEW 60" WIDE Radiant Barrier Foil. You can do a 10' wall with only one seam.

What about your warehouse, storage facility, or airplane hanger? Simply run AtticFoil between the purlins and you will be amazed at how much cooler the warehouse "FEELS". Normally, heat would radiant off the roof and make everything hot in the warehouse even with great ventilaton. Radiant barrier keeps surface temps down.

Top view of AtticFoil installed between the purlins. For large commerical applications contact us for special pricing on large quantites.