Do-It-Yourself Radiant Barrier Foil Insulation

How To Install Radiant Barrier Foil Insulation - Do-It-Yourself There are two methods of installing radiant barrier foil insulation. The most common methods for hot climates like Houston, Austin, Phoenix and Dallas or Fort Worth are either stapled across the bottom of the roof rafters or laid out on top of the insulation. In cities like New York, Chicago it is generally laid out on top of the existing insulation. Currently, radiant barrier foil insulation is most popular in states like Texas, Florida, Arizona and California. However, many customers are realizing the benefits in many parts of the country.Click for the ULTIMATE RADIANT BARRIER INSTALL TRICK Purchase Radiant Barrier

There are generally two methods of installing radiant barrier in an attic. The Standard Method is used for many roofs. Basically, the foil is stapled on the bottom of the rafters and run almost to the top of the rafters. A slot is left along the ridge to and around roof vents to allow air to flow from the soffits to the top of the attic and then vent out the top of the attic.
	The other method is the FlatTop method. With this method a false ceiling or grid is made to create a flat top of radiant barrier foil. This method works best for taller attics that are difficult to reach the ridge area. A vent slot is not required as long as there are exhaust vents ABOVE the flat part of the foil The ideal height for the flat part is about 7 feet off the attic floor. This enables all ductwork and AC equipment to be within the foil envelope and it can easily be reached without ladders. Details of how to install FlatTop Radiant Barrier Method

Easy Installation with only a Staple Gun and a Utility Knife. Perforated Heavyweight no-tear foil will stay up with just a few staples. The best method is to run the foil horizontally ACROSS the rafters.	The rafters are usually 24" (2 feet) apart. You can just count the rafters and add a little to determine how long your next piece should be. Having a Helper is the single biggest factor to making the job go well. Trying to install radiant barrier by yourself is like trying to hang wallpaper by yourself. It can be done, but it's sure not very easy.

Cut foil on cardboard for a clean and easy cut. Do this OUTSIDE the attic. Use a Utility Knife with disposable blades. DO NOT use sissors. The foil will quickly make them dull and your wife will get mad. Trying to cut foil inside the attic is pretty difficult unless you have a very large decked area to work on.	Use the foil box or another piece of cardboard for cutting. This will help keep your blades sharp and last longer. Cut several pieces at a time. If you plan ahead you can often cut 5-10 pieces to fit and minimize trips into the attic.

Cut several pieces at a time. FOLD the foil end to end, then roll or fold foil. This makes the foil easy to unfold inside the attic. Each person can pull on an end and it will fold out without getting creased or folded over. The foil is VERY DURABLE. You do not have to worry about it tearing or ripping while handling.	TIP: Use a "PowerShot" type staple gun. They are about $20 at hardware stores and use a "Front Squeeze" method that is much easier to use than the old type rear squeeze staple guns. You will use about 1 staple for every two square feet. So, on a 1000 ft. square ft. home you will use about 500 staples. Electric staple guns work fine but can get heavy when working over your head. Use 1/4" or 5/16" Staples

Start at the bottom and go as far down as possible. Air will enter and flow behind the foil from the soffit vents. Fold out the full length of the foil. Staple both ends then go back and staple the rafters between the ends (3 or 4 staples per rafter). This is best done with two people.	Another method is to staple the foil to the bottom of the rafter and then leave about 12" to create a "skirt" the RED line shows how the foil is folded back. This works well when you add more insulation after installing radiant barrier foil. The skirt acts as a "backstop" to keep insulation from being blown into the soffits. You will loose the radiant barrier qualities ONLY where you put additional insulation on TOP of the foil since you do not have and air gap on one side.

You must allow an unobstructed path for air ventilation. Air between the foil and the roof will heat up and needs to find a way out. You want to insure a pathway for air to flow from the soffits to the wind turbines, static vents or ridge vents. Even if the slot at the ridge is above the wind turbines or static vents it is OK. The hot air will "pool" in the top of the attic and then find a way out. Under proper installation, the shingles will only increase in temperature about 3-9ºF which is OK. If you do not create a pathway for the air to flow it can becomed "trapped". Since the air is super-heated it could raise the shingle temperature more than acceptable. Cut the foil at least 6 inches around wind turbines, static vents or attic fans.

With the FlatTop Method you do not need to leave an air slot for the air to get to to the topside exhaust vents. You CAN leave gaps or slots, but it is not required. Basically you are creating channels or pathways for cool fresh air to enter at the bottom soffits and go around the foil and out the top of the attic. Once again, you just need to create a pathway for the air to come in the bottom of the attic (soffits) and out the top.

Work your way up cutting around obstacles or supports. Don't worry about wrinkles or how it looks. It does NOT have to be pretty. If you get the foil between the roof and the insulation, the foil will work correctly. You can either Overlap, Butt Seams, or Leave a Small Gap between sheets. You DO NOT need to tape the seams but it will make a cleaner looking install. Remember, you are using PERFORATED foil. You are not trying to make it airtight.	Work around supports, ductwork and other obstacles. Don't worry if you miss a few spots. Foil is like shade, the more the better. But don't waste a lot of time on a very small area. One tip is to cut the duct straps and let them lay on the floor while working. Then, reattach the duct straps to the rafters after the radiant barrier foil installation is complete.

For "Truss Type" attics, run the seam along supports. Then work up or down. This will minimize cutting. Or you can measure how far apart the trusses are. Then, you can run out a long piece of foil and "pre-slit" the foil to fit around each obstacle.	Finished attic. Notice the gap at the top. This will allow heated air to escape and pool at the top of the attic. Your attic ventilation should move this air out. Good attic ventilation is important.

Work from bottom to top. Here is an example using the FlatTop Method.	Attach radiant barrier foil to the flat gable ends of your attic. This will compete the foil envelope.

Finished attic using the FlatTop Method. Notice the installer has cut the duct straps and laid the ducts on top of the insulation while working. When complete he will raise the ducts off the floor. Some areas are just to difficult to get too like the very back corners. Just work around them or lay out foil on TOP of the insulation in this area.
Foil Install Summary Radiant Barrier foil is really easy to install. If you get the foil between the roof and the insulation it will work. It does not have to be real pretty and don't worry if you can't get every spot. Foil is like shade. The more the better. Just make sure your attic has good ventilation in conjunction with the radiant barrier. Taping the seams will make the install look pretty but will NOT make the foil more/less effective. How Much Foil Do I Need? In general, you will need about 1.2 to 1.4 times the area or "footprint" of the attic. This is known as the "pitch factor". A high pitch (steep) roof will require more than a low pitch "flatter" roof. For example: A 1900 ft home with a "standard" pitch or steepness, multiply 1900 x 1.3 = 2470 ft. Order 2500 ft. Radiant Barrier Foil Product Information and Specifications. Product Features: Double Sided foil with tear-proof scrim Perforated to allow water vapor to pass 48" wide rolls